Alexanders

Alexanders aka black lovage, black pot-herb, or horse-parsley (Smyrnium olusatrum) is a biennial herb that is hardy in USDA zones 5-9. It is a member of the carrot family (Apiaceae). Alexanders is native to Chad and to coastal regions in the Mediterranean; and it might also be native to England and Ireland. It is a large herb, growing to a height of four or five feet. Alexanders is almost certainly the herb Hipposelinum which is described by Diosorides in De materia medica, book III, section 67. “It is used as a vegetable like celery. The root is eaten both boiled and raw, the leaves and stalks are eaten boiled: they are prepared by themselves as well as with fish. They are also preserved raw in brine.” Translation by Lily Y. Beck.

In classical Latin Alexanders are known as olusatrum. The manuscript De re coquinaria provides direction for the preparation of Alexanders. “Make up into bunches. They are good eaten raw with liquamen [fermented fish sauce], oil, and wine, or you can eat them with grilled fish.” Translation by Barbara Flower and Elisabeth Rosenbaum.

When he issued the Capitulare de Villis in about 800 A.D., the Holy Roman Emperor Charlemagne required that Alexanders be grown on all his imperial estates. Alexanders were popular in England from Roman times until displaced by celery in the 15th century. Alexanders did not fall from culinary favor in Ireland until the 18th century.

In traditional medicine Alexanders is antiscorbutic, i.e., having the effect of inhibiting or curing scurvy. Today Alexanders are not often grown in home gardens, but frequently wild-harvested especially in the early spring when the young shoots and leaves are tender.

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